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Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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Volume 11, issue 3
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 11, 789–796, 2011
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-11-789-2011
© Author(s) 2011. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Special issue: Extreme and rogue waves

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 11, 789–796, 2011
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-11-789-2011
© Author(s) 2011. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Research article 14 Mar 2011

Research article | 14 Mar 2011

Gravity wave amplification and phase crest re-organization over a shoal

N. Jarry1,2, V. Rey1, F. Gouaud1, and D. Lajoie2 N. Jarry et al.
  • 1LSEET, Université du Sud Toulon-Var, B.P 20132 F8395, la Garde, Cedex, France
  • 2ACRI-in, 06904 Sophia-Antipolis Cedex, France

Abstract. In this experimental work, both wave amplification and phase evolution, due to a submerged mound, are studied. In addition to the classical surface wave measurements, the experimental study takes advantage of photographs that underline crest re-organization above and down-wave the shoal. In particular, together with wave amplification up to more than twice the incident wave, a wave steepening is observed in certain conditions in both the wave direction and in the cross-section. Due to a phase crest separation downstream of the shoal, steepening in the cross-shore direction is enhanced (up to 30% above the steepening along the main direction of propagation). Physical aspects are discussed through the analysis of the diffraction effects on the wave properties.

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