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Volume 14, issue 4 | Copyright

Special issue: Extreme seas and ship operations

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 14, 861-870, 2014
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-14-861-2014
© Author(s) 2014. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Research article 14 Apr 2014

Research article | 14 Apr 2014

Numerical modeling of rogue waves in coastal waters

A. Sergeeva1,2, A. Slunyaev1,2, E. Pelinovsky3,4, T. Talipova1,2, and D.-J. Doong5 A. Sergeeva et al.
  • 1Institute of Applied Physics, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
  • 2Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
  • 3National Research University, Higher School of Economics, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
  • 4Johannes Kepler University, Linz, Austria
  • 5National Taiwan Ocean University, Keelung, Taiwan

Abstract. Spatio-temporal evolution of rogue waves measured in Taiwanese coastal waters is reconstructed by means of numerical simulations. Their lifetimes are up to 100 s. The time series used for reconstructions were measured at dimensionless depths within the range of kh = 1.3–4.0, where k is the wave number and h is the depth. All identified rogue waves are surprisingly weakly nonlinear. The variable-coefficient approximate evolution equations, which take into account the shoaling effect, allow us to analyze the abnormal wave evolution over non-uniform real coastal bathymetry. The shallowest simulated point is characterized by kh ≈ 0.7. The reconstruction reveals an interesting peculiarity of the coastal rogue events: though the mean wave amplitudes increase as waves travel onshore, rogue waves are likely to occur at deeper locations, but not closer to the coast.

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